At the reception desk of the hotel, I asked if they could call us a cab to take us to the Central Market and showed it to her on a Google map. She gave me a “are you sure you want to go there?” look but then called a cab. When the cab showed up, I pointed to the location on my Google map. He gave me a similar look and off we went.
As we travelled, our surroundings got progressively grimier and more impoverished, and Martha and I started to give each other that same look. It didn’t help that a few minutes from the market while we were stuck in gridlocked traffic, a guy stepped off the sidewalk and peed right next to our cab because the cars offered a little privacy. And then we were at our destination. I asked the driver if it was safe and he said (I am translating here) “Yes. More or less. At least at this time of day. But be careful.” And then I realized that because Lima is so enormous there are many "Central Markets" and we were probably at the wrong one and all of a sudden Martha and I missed our Miraflores neighborhood with its safe, colorful surroundings. So without getting out the cab, back we went.
We got some coffee,
spent the afternoon walking along the ocean
. . .and had some terrific ceviche.
In the evening we finally met up with our friends and wandered around the art-heavy Barranco neighborhood and then remembered that other than a few naps, we'd been awake for more than 36 hours and had been wandering around since more or less 4 this morning. That realization pretty much ended our first day. Tomorrow, up at 5 am and off to Paracas.



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