Friday, October 10, 2025

Ride Day 5 - Frias to Haro

Because I spent virtually no time researching what my ride (called “La Rioja – The Descent of the River Ebro”) was actually going to be, I had assumed all along that I would be spending a week in Rioja, the royalty of Spanish wine country. I pictured myself at some trendy, sophisticated wine bar every night, sharing backslapping stories with new Spanish friends and buying everyone another round.


Had I read the description, I would have noticed that it is a ride to Rioja, not through Rioja. During the first four days the route snaked its way through valleys, over mountains and alongside pastures in the most remote areas of Cantabria, Castilla y Leon and País Vasco. Even in the roadside posadas where I stayed, there were no restaurants or stores, let alone wine bars. The people who owned the hotels would go in the back, make basic food and slap it on the table. In most places there was no choice. The rooms were very simple and small and unless you are fascinated by cows and sheep, there was really nothing to do after dinner. For some people this is a dream vacation. After a couple of days, I need a little more action.








Today, the last long ride of my trip, I entered Rioja. As if in a movie, barely 50 feet beyond the “Welcome to Rioja” sign, all I could see in every direction were grapevines. 





The small town I’m staying in has hotels, restaurants, wine bars and trendy tourists, many of whom are walking cute dogs. My room has dependable wifi, hot water, a comfortable bed and a plush bath towel. All of these things for the first time in a week. I have to say that I had not realized what a snob I’d become. But as I sat at a table on the main plaza sipping my Rioja, allowing the tourists walking by to acquaint me with the latest fashions and appreciating the good fortune that brought me to this place, I did realize what a snob I’ve become. Let the back slapping begin.

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